Ajabu!

How Ajabu was Born

Ajabu Cocktail and Spirits Festival is arguably the most exciting thing to happen to the African bar scene for some time. So, what exactly is it all about? The idea was conceptualised by Colin Asare-Appiah, a Ghana-born New Yorker who cut his teeth bartending in 90’s London before settling in advocacy, currently fulfilling the role of Director Multicultural/LGBTQ+ Advocacy at Bacardi. Although he’s lived in the UK and US for the lion’s share of life, building a successful career in the Global North, during the pandemic Asare-Appiah found himself reflecting on his African identity. Not only did he have the impulse to refresh his personal connection to the continent, but he wanted to create an opportunity to showcase the regional bar culture to the world. Asare-Appiah approached Mark Talbot Holmes and suggested they pair up to deliver an African cocktail festival; the two had worked together in years past on a vodka brand which Talbot Holmes founded in 2005, to international triumph. While Asare-Appiah’s birthplace of Ghana may have been the obvious choice as a festival home, after visiting South Africa together late in 2022, they decided it was the most commercially viable location for the moment, the country having the most developed bar scene on the continent. Ghana, as well as other African nations, would be included as global participants. As neither had ties to South Africa, Asare-Appiah and Talbot Holmes needed both local support and buy-in to make Ajabu work. I bumped into the pair in Cape Town when they were doing their recce, and later – having both submitted seminar proposals on Africa to Tales of the Cocktail – Asare-Appiah and I were asked to join forces to present “Africa is Now” in New Orleans in July 2023. Since we clearly had a shared interest in spotlighting Africa – and more importantly, we agreed on the importance of nuance – it made sense that I would manage Ajabu on the ground.

The inaugural festival took the shape of a week-long extravaganza, running from 10–13 March 2024 in Joburg and 14–17 March 2024 in Cape Town. In each city, there were three main events, namely Community Brunches, Tasting Tables and Ajabu Mashups, each aligning with the festival mantra of “Connect, Collaborate and Create.” The overarching concept was to fly in representatives from roughly 10 bars, and partner them with local bars, who would act as hosts in their respective cities.

WATCH THE VIDEO RECAP 

The Maiden Festival

A few weeks before kicking off, the partner bars were introduced to each other, and given the task of collaborating to create a bespoke cocktail menu, featuring a riff on a Pornstar Martini Cocktail, four other cocktails and one mocktail … the Pornstar being an ode to the late Douglas Ankrah, inventor of said libation, who Colin worked with at LAB in London.

The South African bars included SinTax, A Streetbar Named Desire, Benchwarmers, Saigon Suzy and Smoking Kills in Joburg, and The Drinkery, Talking to Strangers, The House of Machines, Tjing Tjing, Tommy’s Chop Shop, Cause Effect Cocktail Kitchen and Fable in Cape Town. From the wider continent, there were Front Back, No 19 and Mood Bar from Ghana, and Hero from Kenya. Other bars hailed from the US and UK, with bartenders including Kapri Robinson, Princess Johnson, Naren Young, Stephen Wicker, Timmy Falzon and Terry France.

Having designed their menus together remotely, the next step was for the bartenders to hang out a bit before they jumped behind the bar together, and this is what the brunches were for. Not only did the participants get to meet each other in person, but they spent time with representatives from their sponsor brands as well, for some key brand learnings. Our hosts were Saigon Suzy in Joburg and The Bailey in Cape Town.

“[Here], the local and international guest bartenders could connect in an organic way, to share experiences and ideas and forge new relationships, and all this against a backdrop of Johannesburg and Cape Town, both vibrant hospitality destinations,” explained Asare-Appiah.

This sponsor brand touchpoint was extended to invited guests with the Tasting Tables. Brands set up stands, and prepared elevator pitches to deliver to attendees as they rotated from stand to stand every 15 minutes. In Joburg, the Tasting Tables were held at SinTax, while in Cape Town they were at Strange Love. Finally, the main events, and where the general public could get involved, were the flagship Ajabu Mashups. This is when, over two nights in each city – at the local bars – the partnering bar teams worked the stick, side by side, to shake, muddle and mix the cocktails on their collaborative menus.

Finally, aside from the main events mentioned above, there were a few other goings-ons. At SinTax in Joburg, Monica Berg (co-owner Tayēr + Elementary and four-time Bar World 100 most influential individual in the global bar industry) and yours truly did a talk on community and culture.

While at Talking to Strangers in Cape Town, the Sisterhood of Industry Support put a “Hey Sis” panel together on career development, which featured the likes of Eileen Wayner (CEO Tales of the Cocktail) and Chris Cabrera (US National LGBTQ+ Ambassador at Bacardi) and Charlotte Voisey (Global Head of Brand Ambassador Advocacy at a spirits company). Also in Cape Town, at Cause Effect Camps Bay, Ian Burrell (Founder UK RumFest and Global Ambassador to the Rum Category) engaged in “Cocktails and Conversation” with Kurt Schlechter (Owner Cause Effect group), to mark the industry icon’s 50th birthday.

What People Had to Say

Organisers Asare-Appiah and Talbot Holmes were delighted both with how the event rolled out, particularly from a community point of view.

“Colin and my vision was to make an environment for global and local bartenders to connect, collaborate and create. This we did and it created magic. Lots of new friends were made across countries and the bartenders commented how they loved the insights into each other’s countries and ways of working,” shared Talbot Holmes.

“The community and friendships that were made, along with the respect and recognition of peers, is a true measure of the success of Ajabu Cocktail and Spirits Festival,” added Asare-Appiah.

While feedback from festival goers included some ideas for tweaks, by and large the response was positive.

“Ajabu Fest was an amazing first step on the journey of empowerment from Africa's cocktail and spirits industry. It was a melting pot of cocktail culture, beverage carnival and drinks knowledge, shaken with African heritage and served with African swagger. An amazing and wonderful experience, I look forward to the next chapter of this amazing cocktail festival,” declared Burrell.

“The industry at large has been sleeping on Africa and it is high time the cutting-edge bars and bartenders of the continent are celebrated in the way that Ajabu has done. Personally, I learnt so much from what I saw and tasted in Johannesburg and Cape Town. Counting the days until the next Ajabu!” effused Voisey.

“The inaugural Ajabu Festival was an important catalysing moment, and the immediate impact was palpable – creating connection and building community regionally across the continent and globally. The exchange of ideas, techniques and enthusiasm for the industry was fresh and exciting,” confirmed Wayner.

“I felt very privileged to be part of the inaugural Ajabu festival, and I loved learning so much about the local bar community and seeing what bartending looks like in South Africa. It’s incredibly impressive to see how resourceful and creative everyone is, and I can only hope I get to come back and see more in the future!” shared Berg.

What's Next?

The next Ajabu will be in Cape Town only, currently scheduled for 21–25 November. The March 2025 edition will return to the Joburg-Cape Town format.

“Ajabu in November will have more bars from Asia and South America, as well as Africa. There will a similar number of pop ups, but over three nights so that more people from the industry can experience the festival. There will also be more talks to help inspire and support the industry in practical ways. Several people asked for more seminars on setting up a successful bar, branding, women in the industry, and getting the right work-life balance amongst others,” Talbot Holmes divulged.

“Looking ahead, the long-term vision for Ajabu Cocktail and Spirits Festival involves expanding its presence beyond its current locations, with plans to host events in other markets across the African continent. This expansion aims to further promote connection and collaboration within the cocktail community and showcase bartending as a viable career,” revealed Asare-Appiah.

“Africa is now, and the hope is that Ajabu Cocktail and Spirits Festival will become the space for the cocktail community to connect across the continent and internationally,” he added.